Men’s Measurement Guide


Made to measure works best when your measurements are clear and consistent. Don’t worry about doing it “perfectly” like a tailor would, just follow this guide and we’ll sense-check anything that looks odd before we start cutting.

Before you start

What you need

  • A soft tape measure (the flexible sewing kind)

  • A mirror or a friend (a friend makes it much easier)

  • A notepad or your phone to write results down

What to wear

  • A thin t-shirt and normal trousers (or just measure over underwear)

  • No thick jumpers, hoodies or belts

How tight should the tape be?

  • Snug but not tight. The tape should sit flat against your body without digging in.

  • Keep it level and straight, not angled.

Units

  • Use inches or centimetres, either is fine. Just tell us which you used.

Top tip

  • Measure each point twice and take the number that repeats.

The measurements we need (required)

1) Chest

What it is: Your chest around the fullest part, under the armpits.
How to measure:

  1. Stand relaxed, arms down.

  2. Wrap the tape around the widest part of your chest, under your arms.

  3. Keep it level across your back (use a mirror).

  4. Breathe normally and read the number without sucking in your chest.

Common mistake: Measuring too high (near the armpits) or too low (around the ribs).

2) Waist (tummy)

What it is: The widest part of your midsection (where your tummy actually sits).
How to measure:

  1. Stand naturally, do not pull your stomach in.

  2. Wrap the tape around the widest part of your tummy.

  3. Keep it level all the way around and read the number.

Common mistake: Measuring where jeans sit instead of where your tummy is widest. For MTM we want the true body measurement.

3) Hips / Seat (bum)

What it is: Around the fullest part of your bum and hips.
How to measure:

  1. Stand with feet together.

  2. Wrap the tape around the fullest part of your bum (often a bit lower than people expect).

  3. Keep it level and read the number.

Common mistake: Measuring too high on the hips rather than the fullest bum point.

4) Trouser waist (where you wear the waistband)

What it is: The circumference where you actually like your trouser waistband to sit.
How to measure:

  1. Find where you normally wear your trousers (some people wear them on the hips, others higher).

  2. Wrap the tape around that exact line.

  3. Keep it level and read the number.

Why we ask this as well as “waist”: Your natural waist and your trouser waistband position are often not the same. This helps trousers sit comfortably.

5) Inside leg

What it is: From the top of your inside leg down to where you want the trouser hem to finish.
How to measure (best method):

  1. Put on a pair of trousers that fit you well.

  2. Measure from the crotch seam (where the legs meet) down the inside seam to the hem.

  3. That number is your inside leg.

If measuring directly on your body:

  1. Stand straight in socks.

  2. Place the tape at the top of the inside leg (right up where the legs meet).

  3. Measure straight down to your ankle bone or to where you want the trousers to finish.

Common mistake: Measuring the outside leg instead of inside leg, or starting too low.

6) Jacket sleeve length

What it is: From the top of the shoulder down to the wrist bone, following the natural bend of your arm.
How to measure:

  1. Stand relaxed, arm slightly bent (not locked straight).

  2. Place the tape at the top of your shoulder (where a shoulder seam would sit).

  3. Measure down over the elbow to the wrist bone (the bump at the wrist).

  4. Read the number.

Common mistake: Measuring to the hand instead of the wrist bone.

7) Height

What it is: Your full height without shoes.
How to measure:

  1. Stand against a wall without shoes.

  2. Keep your head level.

  3. Mark the wall and measure from floor to mark.

Why we need it: Height helps us balance the proportions of jacket length, sleeve balance and trouser break.

Optional measurements (very helpful, especially if you are hard to fit)

These are not required, but if you can provide them they help us get closer first time.

8) Shoulder width

What it is: Across your back from shoulder point to shoulder point.
How to measure:

  1. Find the bony point at the end of each shoulder (where an arm seam would sit).

  2. Measure straight across the back from one point to the other.

9) Upper arm (bicep)

What it is: Around the widest part of your upper arm.
How to measure:

  1. Relax your arm by your side (do not flex).

  2. Wrap the tape around the fullest part of the upper arm.

  3. Read the number.

Why it matters: If you have larger arms, this stops sleeves feeling tight.

10) Thigh

What it is: Around the widest part at the top of your thigh.
How to measure:

  1. Stand relaxed with feet shoulder-width apart.

  2. Wrap the tape around the fullest part of the thigh, high up near the top.

  3. Read the number.

11) Calf

What it is: Around the widest part of the calf.
How to measure:

  1. Stand relaxed.

  2. Wrap the tape around the fullest part of the calf.

  3. Read the number.

Why it matters: Helps trouser shape if you have strong calves.

Helpful extras you can include (optional)

These aren’t “measurements”, but they help us sense-check:

  • Your usual suit size (for example 40 chest, 34 waist)

  • Whether you normally buy short, regular or long jackets off the rack

  • Any fit preferences: “I like a slimmer look” or “I like room to move”

  • Anything unusual: one shoulder higher, one arm longer, very athletic thighs